1. Turn the circuit breaker off to the heater.
    
2. Placing the volt/ohm meter into the ohms position you want to check continuity across the timer. The timer is broken down into two sections. These sections are 1 with 1A and the other section is the number 2 with 2A. Both 1 and 2 are power feeding into the timer where as 1A and 2A are the power coming out of the timer. This timer has 3 poles deep and when the timer is turned on the first pole on 1 and the first pole on 1A should be reading continuity. The second pole on 1 should read continuity with the second pole on 1A. The third pole on 1 should read continuity with the third pole on 1A. The same hold true with the poles of 2 and 2A. After testing all poles on the timer and they all read O.K. move on to step 3.If one or more terminals did not read continuity it is necessary to replace the timer at this time.
    
3. Checking the continuity on the thermostat will be much like the timer only that there is half as many terminals. With the stem of thermostat turned as far as it can go in a clockwise motion it will be necessary to test continuity with poles across from one another. Terminal 11 should read continuity with 22 and 13 should read continuity with 23. (Note: This is normal for all three elements to be on at first and then to drop one out at a time leaving one element on at the end.) If all the terminals check out o.k. on the thermostat, let's move on to step 4.
    
4. Checking the continuity on the hi-limits are much like checking the continuity of the thermostat. In the deluxe style heaters it is identical to the thermostats only there isn't a stem to turn. All hi-limits should read in the normally closed position. If it is a thermodisc type it will only have four poles and will be paired with the ones across from them. If the h-limit does not reset by pushing it is necessary to install a new hi-limit. If all terminals check out O.K. here it is time to go to step 5.
    
5. You must check continuity at the element and make sure that you have resistance at the element. Be sure that you take one wire off one side of the element that you are testing, because you could receive false results due to backfeeding of the circuitry. If everything checks out O.K. move on to step 6.
    
6. You have completed all testing of each component and everything checks out fine and it still does not work it must be a wire is loose or has come off it's terminal through installation and tighten connection and slip back on to appropriate terminal. Maybe a wire is bad and needs to be replaced?
    
7. For those customers that purchased outside controls you must make sure that the wiring between the control and the heater is exactly like the diagram or the heater will not function properly.

PROBLEM:  HEATER NOT GETTING HOT ENOUGH?

1. Improper voltage.
2. Are the vents closed?
3. Is the sauna room constructed well without air gaps?
4. Where are you sensing temperature at? Thermometer should be located 6-12" from ceiling height.
5. Is heater working properly?

PROBLEM:  HEATER WILL NOT COME ON

1. Check circuit breaker.
2. Check h-limit.
3. Check timer.
4. Check thermostat.

PROBLEM:  HEATER APPEARS NOT TO BE AS HOT AS IT USED TO GET

1. Check timer.
2. Check terminals of elements.
3. Check thermostat.
4. Condition of wiring.
5. Tighten all connections.

PROBLEM:  HEATER LIGHT WILL NOT COME ON

1. Check pilot temp.
2. Check timer.

WARNING: PLEASE DO NOT TRY TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE POWER STILL TURNED ON UNLESS YOU ARE A CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN!!! ONE LITTLE MISTAKE MIGHT COST YOU YOUR LIFE!!!
 

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